Visiting a vineyard
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Domaine Pierre Girardin 2018
One of the most anticipated visits of my trip in Burgundy last month was Domaine Pierre Vincent Girardin, a new address in Meursault with gorgeous and smart Chardonnay and seriously good red wines from a mixture of Pierre Vincent’s own vineyards and purchased grapes. Most producers usually excel in making either Chardonnay or Pinot Noir in Burgundy, but I honestly can’t decide one here. A producer to keep an eye out for. Pierre Vincent started harvest on the 26th of August for the whites and 1st of September for the reds. Yields for reds were between 30-38hl/ha and 50-55hl/ha for whites. Winemaking Style One of the things that stands out…
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Domaine Perrot-Minot 2018
Christophe Perrot-Minot made spectacular wines in 2018, a step up from his sumptuous wines in 2017 (which I can’t say the same for many producers in this vintage). 50-60% whole cluster with rigorous sorting of any overripe / wrinkled grapes and in some cases declassifying grapes to lower cru bottlings. Christophe’s 2018 quality is very consistent across the range, 13.2-13.7% alcohol with fine acidity and balance. One of the highlights of 2018 red producers. Harvest started on the 7th of September. Winemaking Style 50-60% whole cluster. Maximum two pigéage with very gentle pump over. Low percentage of new oak depending on cuvee. No racking. Tasting Notes Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes…
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Domaine Hudelot Noellat 2018
Charles Van Canneyt at Domaine Hudelot Noellat made some rich and concentrated wines in 2018. Personally, I am not a massive fan of this structured style of Burgundy but I admire their effort in retaining freshness and keeping alcohol reasonably low (13.2-14.2%) in this warm vintage. Harvest for the reds started on the 5th of September. Alcohol level between 13.2% to 14.2%. pH 3.6-3.8. Yield ranged from 36-48hl/ha. Winemaking 100% destemmed. 20% new oak in village wine, 30% new oak in Premier Cru and 50% new oak in Grand Cru. Tasting Notes Meursault 2018 2018 is the second vintage of Meursault from Hudelot Noellat. Harvested on the 28th of August.…
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Domaine Denis Mortet 2018
One of the stars in 2018, Domaine Denis Mortet made elegant and refreshing wines in 2018, juicy red fruits with delicate floral notes from partial whole cluster, cutting tiny stems rather than the entire stalk: 7 cuts per bunch, much more labour intensive, same practice at Domaine Leroy and recently Thibault Liger Belair. Alcohol level ranged from 13.0-13.6%. The overall yield ranged from 40-45hl/ha. pH 3.5 Winemaking Style Arnaud Mortet is not a fan of cold maceration. Whole bunch depends on vintage and village. Premier Cru and Grand Cru received 20-40% stems, cutting tiny stems rather than the entire stalk. Lots of new oak from 20% in Bourgogne Rouge to…
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Domaine Fourrier 2018
Domaine Fourrier is one of the finest estates in Gevrey Chambertin, and they made classic blockbuster wines in 2018. Concentrated with good depth and balance. An estate I follow since their 2005 vintage. Domaine Fourrier started harvest on the reds on the 7th of September with a huge team of 60 staff. Harvest started very early in the morning everyday to keep the grapes cool and fresh. Alcohol range from 12.8-13.5%. pH: 3.4-3.5. Winemaking Style 100% destemmed with 4 days of cold maceration. Low pigéage. Aged in barrels until February 2020. 10-15% new oak in village and Premier Cru, and 20% new oak in Grand Cru. All barrels from Cadus,…
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Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet 2018
A joy to taste Amélie Berthaut’s 2018, particularly when the appellations Gevrey Chambretin and Fixin outperformed in 2018. I was particularly impressed with her Fixin 1er Cru les Arvelets and Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Plantes, dark fruited with a fragrant core, refined. Berthaut’s 2018 are wines that can age for many years and should be cellared with patience, especially the Vosne Romanee wines. Amélie started harvest on the 3rd of September for Pinot Noir and end of August for the white. Tasting Notes Gevrey Chambertin 2018 10% whole cluster. 30% new oak. From Combe du Dessus. Bright red fruits and rich blackberries. Vibrant acidity with good firmness and delicate…
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Domaine Duroche 2018
Domaine Duroche is one of the best producers in 2018 I have tasted. Pierre’s winemaking skills has reached to a new height and 2018 seem to have favoured Gevrey Chambertin as an appellation (more water). Most of his cuvees were at 12.5% alcohol with a few 13.5%. The style reminded me of Domaine Armand Rousseau, perhaps with slightly more concentration. Minimal new oak and a small percentage of whole cluster in some cuvees. A producer to look out for in 2018 Duroche started harvest on the 3rd of September, and I feel their wines have excelled in the balance between ripeness, richness and acidity. Alcohol level was at a modest…
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Domaine Arnoux Lachaux 2018
Charles Lachaux made a gorgeous portfolio of wines in 2018. Despite the lower acidity level in 2018, his wines are well-balanced and delicate. 100% whole cluster with floral nose and very soft tannins, an achievement consider other producers made heavier (borderline tannic) reds. Alcohol level were at a very modest level between 12.5%-13.5%. A producer to look out for especially in 2018. Harvest started in early September. Since 2017 Charles converted all corks to 54mm natural corks 100% tested for TCA. Winemaking Style In 2018, all the vines were not trimmed and there are around 5 times more leaves than usual with half the usual grape volume. In this fruitful…
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Domaine Robert Groffier 2018
Domaine Robert Groffier made a lovely array of Pinot Noir in 2018. Juicy and transparent with good balance (13.5% alcohol), a modern expression of Chambolle Musigny. Interesting to observe the gradual increase of whole bunch and new oak as we go from Bougogne to the Grand Crus, from 100% destemmed and no new oak in their Bourgogne to their 100% whole cluster and 100% new oak Chambertin Clos de Beze. In 2018, Bonnes Mares was particularly powerful and intense, though I have a soft spot for the Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix, sexy fragrant (30% whole cluster) resembles the elegance of Les Amoureuses. Harvest started on the 30th…
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Domaine Heitz Lochardet 2017
My first visit to Domaine Heitz Lochardet and Armand Heitz welcomed us warmly. Most of the 2018 were not ready for tasting so we went through most of the 2017 whites and reds as well as the entry level 2018. In 2017, Armand Heitz made a superb portfolio of 2017 whites and surprisingly delicious 2017 reds, the 100% whole cluster style in their Pinot Noir matched the vintage characteristics really well – elegant and flamboyant, offering plenty of pleasure to drink young. A producer to keep an eye out for both their whites and reds! Winemaking 100% wholecluster in all their reds in 2017 since they didn’t have a destemmer…
