Fine Wine Reviews
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Jacques Selosse Review – Initial, Substance, Sous Le Monts, Contraste, Ratafia
A pleasure to partake in an extensive Selosse tasting, including the elusive Contrast (old Cote Faron) and Ratafia. The highlight for me was the 2005 disgorgement Substance (superlative complexity) and the 2010 disgorgement Initial, it is impressive how well Initial ages. Tasting Notes Initial One of the highlights of the Selosse tasting was this 2010 disgorgement Initial, it has gained a lot more complexity since release and it hasn’t lost any of its vibrancy. Rich array of ripe tree fruits, seashell, smoked wood and a touch of orange peel. Some resemblance to Les Carelles, both with lovely elegance and a hint of cream soda. Great to drink now and likely…
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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé 2001
2001 is such a lovely vintage to drink now, all the de Vogue are drinking now beautifully except the Musigny, which is still too young! The declassified Musigny Blanc is opulent and somewhat lactic and a touch cheesy. Lots of retained freshness for a 20 year old white! All of the de Vogue 01s have a delineated red cherry and airy spice backbone, and it’s especially transparent in the Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru (young vines in Musigny). Needless to say I have a soft spot for their Amoureuses! Tasting Notes De Vogue Bourgogne Blanc 2001 The 2001 de Vogue declassified Musigny Blanc is opulent and somewhat lactic and a touch…
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2019 Burgundy Vintage Report
Due to the various travel restrictions within France and the UK caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, I did not visit Burgundy this year to taste the 2019 from barrel. Fortunately, a few merchants in the UK got producers to send their bottles of 2019 to London, and the merchants (as well as with the help of 67 Pall Mall) rebottled the 2019 wines into smaller sample bottles and sent them directly to us. I was lucky enough to taste more than 130 samples at home in December and form an initial view of 2019 Burgundy Vintage. Whites Many 2019 whites are concentrated yet high in alcohol and acidity. One can…
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Domaine Dujac 2018
Domaine Dujac managed to retain freshness superbly in this warm vintage, most wines were at a modest 13.5% alcohol, with a couple of cuvees close to 14% alcohol (Malconsorts). Grape pickings started on the 25/26th from Puligny Montrachet, then pickers went straight to Cote de Nuits afterwards. Most cuvees had maximum wholecluster this vintage, 90% stems. The reds are rich and fragrant, especially the wines from Gevrey Chambertin (see my 2018 vintage report). I was also pleasantly surprised by their Chardonnay this year, the whites are more aromatic than the 2017. Domaine Dujac owns 17.3ha of vineyard in total. Biodynamic approaches but not certified. Tasting Notes Morey Saint Denis Blanc…
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2018 Burgundy Vintage Report
After tasting more than 50 producers and close to 800 wines in Burgundy and at En Premier week in London, it is evident that 2018 is a variable vintage for the reds, and one should not jump into buying before prior tasting or research. Vintage 2018 was a warm and dry vintage, many vines suffered hydraulic stress. Since the 2018 summer was very hot (we had the warmest summer in the UK since 1976!), the harvest date played a huge role in making good wines – Producers who starting harvesting their Pinot Noir in Cote de Nuits in the first week of September generally managed to produce wines with less…
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Corton Charlemagne Masterclass – November 2019
An educational evening of Corton Charlemagne masterclass covering both principal and “up and coming” producers from both negotiant and own domaine grapes. The key takeaways from the Corton Charlemagne dinner was: Never fully rely on producer reputation (Jadot > Meo & Chandon Briailles > de Montille) Reductive new oak modern style are popular (Dugat Py and Pierre Vincent Girardin) Coche is Coche Aperitif – Dom Perignon 1996 The 1996 Dom Perignon is drinking superbly today. A rich and exuberant nose of zingy ripe orchard fruit, creamy biscuit and hints of brioche. Medium bodied with great acidity. (92/100) Flight 1 Louis Jadot Domaine des Heritiers Corton Charlemagne 2012 From own Domaine…
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The Comprehensive Guide to Pierre Yves Colin Morey
Pierre Yves Colin Morey is one of the most highly regarded producer in Chassagne Montrachet, known for their reductive and leesy Chardonnay that can age for staggering amount of years. They also have a very low risk of premature oxidation (premox). Winemaking Pierre Yves aged all his wines in 350L barrel since 2007. According to Pierre Yves, ageing wines in 350L barrels gives the wines more energy and freshness and less creamy notes and oak spices. Recommendations PYCM wines are distinctive and stands out from most white Burgundies from their potent leesy, reductive notes. Their signature style is stamped across all their white wines, from the generic Bourgogne Blanc to…
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Domaine Dujac 2017
Domaine Dujac made a beautiful selection of wines in 2017. Their 2017 wines were bottled a week ago before this tasting. The reds are charming with good depth, they should be approachable in the mid-term and will age for decades like most of their other vintages. Style Change in Chardonnay Domaine Dujac are experimental with their winemaking especially for their Chardonnay in the last decade. I have noticed Domaine Dujac changed styles multiple times for their Chardonnay: Mid-late 2000s: Wines are rich and leesy, overtly heavy Early 2010s: Wines are intense with lots of buttery new oak spices (Personal favourite style) 2017: Some of the wines were aged in concrete…
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Domaine Georges Noellat 2017
Maxime Cheurlin marked a new milestone for Domaine Georges Noellat in 2017, volume has never been higher at the Domaine as Maxime bought new vineyards and signed new contracts in the past few years. In 2017 Maxime added a new cuvee to the portfolio – Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mignotte, a darker shade of fruits compared to his Vosne Romanee. Winemaking Style 2017 is Maxime’s seventh vintage as the winemaker of Domaine Georges Noellat after moving down from Champagne in 2010. All the grapes are destemmed (except for Echezeaux, which sees 15-20% whole cluster) but the wines are brilliantly elegant, bright and perfumed (think Domaine Duroche). In general,…
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Chassagne Montrachet En Remilly & Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques
Two months ago I hosted a horizontal blind tasting of Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly and Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques, two of my favourite Premier Crus respectively in Chassagne Montrachet and Gevrey Chambertin. The En Remilly in Chassagne Montrachet is a tiny 1er Cru vineyard (1.6ha) located next to Chevalier Montrachet and below Saint Aubin En Remilly. Most producers are lesser known apart from PYCM, most participants are new to almost all the producers in this prime vineyard. The highlight for me was the Bruno Colin, it showed superior concentration and winemaking skills in this tiny vineyard. PYCM needs no introduction, textbook reductive leesy nose and…
